Converso

Guillermina Jasso, a sociology professor at New York University, said Angel was “evocative of the old converso practice of taking on very Christian surnames as a way of survival in a suspicious environment.”

In the Inquisition's terms, both were automatically suspect by the fact that their families were conversos, and they might be seen as emerging from that maelstrom of religious energy released by the religious realignment of Spain in the 1490s.

As well as salted lard and farinheira (the description “smoked sausage” fails to prepare me adequately for this extremely unusual tangy flour pudding that’s said to have been developed by 16th-century Jews to help them pass as conversos, though, like many Portuguese foods, the modern version is full of pork fat), Carreira’s feijoada contains pork ribs, trotters and ears.