Godet

A pie-shaped godet (the most common one), is usually cut with straight grain down the center of the piece of fabric, leaving bias edges on the sides.

Designs with godets, gussets, square or pointed yokes and shawl collars have seams with reverse corners, that is, an inward corner on one edge and an outward corner on the adjoining edge.

You can sew a godet into a slit cut perpendicular to a hem edge, but it's more common—and much easier—to insert it into a vertical panel seam, as shown here. Because godets are shaped pieces, often with a pronounced curve at the hem edge, they can be tricky to hem.

1991, Textile Asia, Volume 22, Issues 1-6, page 54, Primary air entanglement is applied to give the yarn better cohesion and thus achieve a smoother, quieter thread path over the godets. After the yarn guiding block a heated godet with idler roll acts as a spinning godet and thus defines spinning […] .

In contrast to conventional spinning, wind-up in high speed spinning is often carried out without godets, as shown earlier in Fig. 4.2(a). The absence of godets reduces capital costs and makes thread string-up simpler.

Drawing is accomplished between godets 3 and 4 by the different speeds of the two godet groups.