Studen

But perhaps the most popular Russian entrees are studen and jellied suckling pig, the latter served with horseradish and cream.

Mrs. Petrunin had short notice about her guest (her husband simply phoned from the office), but she is most gracious and produces a splendid supper consisting of studen, a kind of jellied meat; small tomatoes from the farm’s hothouse; vinigrette, a salad of canned crab (it looks and tastes like lobster and is from Baikal lake in Siberia), eggs and peas; sardelki, a large thick boiled sausage; mashed potatoes; bananas (imported, probably from Israel), apples, cookies, candy (Little Red Riding Hood brand) and tea.

Many holiday dishes were served, blintzes, studen, meat, and, of course, the vodka with which the dinner started.

Checking out the studen, its calves feet and pork snouts floating languidly in purple gelatin, I gulped and said, “I think I’ll pass. Like I told you before, I already had breakfast.”

Studen is served with horseradish, mustard, pounded garlic, and sour cream.